Thinning fog over the Strait hangs low, evanescent light filters through it and I wonder: What is water, what is air? What is real, what is not? Is my mind there, inside the fog, or am I safe here above it?
An ordinary day suddenly shifts in an eerie afternoon light, the sun glowing softly through the fog, casting a lemony glow. And then a double rainbow drops down to the Strait out of a cloud and dazzles me. There really aren’t any ordinary days here.
Slack tide—the bay is nearly still, a sheet of silvery matte paper on which slow-moving currents write glossy messages that only gulls can read.
Music
CDs I listen to often for inspiration are from: Secret Garden, Clannad, Loreena McKennitt, Libana, Jane Monheit, Angelique Kidjo and Yo-Yo Ma. My tastes fall mostly into 3 categories: jazz, classcial and world music.
But best of all, I enjoy the sounds outside my door: heron gliding by, geese on the lagoon, gulls playing in a stiff breeze, flickers working at a nearby fir tree, quail organizing their coveys and the strong winds off the Strait whipping through the madronas.
Books
What else would a Beach Recluse read but Walden? I recently read it again in the new coffee table version with glorious color photos of Walden Pond...it was a real treat. Then I read his writings on Cape Cod...imagine walking the length of it like Henry did--more than once! It's interesting though, that Thoreau wasn't really very isolated in his cabin...he walked to Concord nearly every day and received many visitors in his hermitage. He did have quiet at night--except for the nearby railroad. I'm sure I'm much more of a recluse than Henry was...I can go for a week without going into town or seeing another human, and that's dandy by me. I'm not so much anti-social as I am a lover of solitude...comes from being an only child, no doubt.
Next on my list of faves would have to be Pilgrim at Tinker Creek by Annie Dillard, who was also heavily influenced by Walden. Though she wrote about rural Virginia in the 20th century, there is a bond between them in their love of nature and their ability to see divinity in most things. I hadn't read it since it came out, so I read it again this summer. It's wonderful to revisit books who are old friends and see how they've withstood the passage of time. Interestingly, Dillard has remained elusive and reclusive ever since the hoopla that descended upon her after she published Tinker Creek. She lived for a time in the mid '70s up here in the San Juan Islands...I would love to have known her then--or now.
I especially enjoyed her observations of trees: "A big elm in a single season might make as many as six million leaves, wholly intricate, without budging an inch; I couldn't make one."
Another type of book I love is a feminist utopia...Herland by Charlotte Perkins Gilman (1915) is a great example, and very forward-thinking for it's time. In the 1970s Sally Miller Gearhart published a more modern utopia, Wanderground: Stories of Hill Women. Amazingly, many of the types of communication she envisioned are now reality thanks to the Internet.
Heroes
Strong, creative women: Virginia Woolf, Edna Millay, May Sarton, Georgia O'Keefe, Camille Claudel, Frida Kahlo, Judy Chicago.
My blog, Green Meditations, is all green...130% wind powered (that's right, 130%).
It doesn’t matter what kind of beach you can get to: a wintry, churn of wild energy flung upon the sand, a sunny dune where you can read your book in peace, a rocky ledge strewn with mussels, a wide, quiet beach at dawn full of the tide’s leavings or the soothing shore of a lake with its gentle lapping—I love them all.
Love at first sight
Born in Illinois, the closest thing I’d seen to an ocean was the sea of grasses washing across the Midwestern prairies. On our move west when I was just a kid, I could sense the drama building as I first saw the Rockies looming in the distance, then the excitement of the climb over them, and the descent into a rugged world I’d only glimpsed in cowboy movies. But nothing on that trip compared to the thrill of seeing the ocean for the first time.
I hurry to the crest of the hill and pause at its edge in awe. Before me is Haystack Rock—I am amazed anything that huge sits in the ocean.
I run, tumble and roll down the steep sandy bank to the wide beach below. The waves are far away and I can walk to the base of the giant rock, exploring tide pools along the way. In the very first one I find a strange new animal grasping a smaller rock. A five-fingered purple sea star, it’s just the size of my hand, and I match mine to it in greeting.
Not quite seven, I am immediately enthralled—with the expanse of the sea, the tang of the air, the clarity of the water and the feel of sand between my toes. Expanding my lungs with the glorious salty air, I am certain the ocean will always be a magical place for me.
And I was right.
As I wade through shallow pools, edging closer to the waves crashing onto the far side of Haystack Rock, I am lured by the sound, by the hypnotic rhythm, by the immense unharnessed power I feel vibrating in the soles of my feet. But I am not afraid. I somehow sense I will always know how to respect this power, and perhaps even one day how to infuse it into my own body.
Being on the seashore energized me, heightened my perceptions and made me never want to leave. From that day forward I pestered my parents every weekend and every summer to take me back. Thankfully, they often did. After all, it was only an hour away, and in the late ‘50s and early ‘60s traffic was never a problem, since Oregon had yet to become a popular destination. I suppose my parents, who had spent their lives landlocked in the Midwest, also felt a similar attraction.
And once I got my driver’s license and my own car, I would even play hooky from high school and spend the day alone at the beach in utter bliss. Being a good student—and an even better forger—I was able to show up the next day with a note from my mother and no one was the wiser. For me the ocean was a drug, an addiction, a constant pull on me, as if my own inner tides could not properly ebb and flow so far removed from the source. And I always knew I would have to live at her edge.
(Excerpted from my forthcoming book, Treasures in the Tide)
The beaches in my life
And I have. I’ve lived all up and down the California and Oregon coasts…Carmel, Pacific Grove, Monterey, San Francisco, Mendocino, Gleneden Beach, Nelscott, Cannon Beach. And now I’ve gone as far north as I can in this country…to the remote and spectacular coast of Washington state along the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
Now before you think I’ve lost my mind moving to a place with a reputation for nasty weather 350 days a year, let me tell you a big secret—but don’t tell anyone—I live in a rainshadow. What’s that? I am protected by the huge Olympic Mountains just behind me.
And even though the Hoh rainforest is part of the Olympics, where rain pours down 12-14 FEET per year, here I get only about 10 INCHES a year—the same as Los Angeles! The rainshadow is a small crescent of dryness reaching from Sequim to Port Townsend, and I live right in the middle.
Out my windows I can see the San Juan Islands, Discovery Bay (which is named after the Discovery, a ship used by Capt. George Vancouver in 1792 during his exploration of this area for Britain) as well as the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the waterway which separates the U.S. from British Columbia. I have a dazzling view of Mt. Baker in the North Cascades, and on a clear day I can see all the way to Mt. Whistler north of Vancouver, B.C. (Yeah, he named a lot of things around here.)
So now that I’ve told you about my beachy side, a bit about the recluse part. If you've read this far, I don't mind revealing my name: Oriana Green. And what better profession for a recluse than ghostwriter? Ever wondered what that really is?
Find out here.
I love it here, because I can walk on the beach every day and rarely see another soul. And though it’s a 40-mile roundtrip to the nearest town, it’s worth it to me, because it’s Quiet with a capital Q. The noisiest people here are the geese on the lagoon and the seagulls laughing as they swoop by playing on updrafts.
I wake with my mind spewing out ideas faster than I can corral them into the notebooks I keep beside my bed. Then I move to my favorite chair and gaze out my windows at the parade of ships along the Strait of Juan de Fuca—and enjoy another hour or so of writing—all before breakfast. I think. I observe. I dream. I write. I read, take photos, create little movies. All day and into my nights.
And for that I need solitude. But I do have a boon companion, my sidekick for the last 15 years—my papoodle, Rose. What’s a papoodle? Half miniature poodle, half papillon—all love and butterfly ears.
See you on the beach!
Who I'd like to meet:
I'd love to meet a mermaid on my beach!
Keep track of your friends in a beachy blank journal featuring my photos on the cover.
"In winter we lead a more inward life. Our hearts are warm and cheery, like cottages under drifts, whose windows and doors are half concealed, but from whose chimneys the smoke cheerfully ascends." - HDT, A Winter Walk
Dear friend, may the beauty and wonder of the season bring you joy, peace and happiness throughout the holidays and new year! Henry
Hello? we are friends are we not..I just noticed you on my friends list but recall not where or when. fellow beach lover though I see, beautiful pics. peace, lara